In these challenging times, learning to deal with the new “normal” can mean many things to different people. One hurdle that I have tackled recently was a new workstation with the capability to run some more resource-intensive CAD/CAM/CAE software among other things. Building a computer from scratch might not be your cup of tea, or might seem a little intimidating, but it’s really not as hard as you might think. Here’s a chronicling of my journey and maybe some helpful tips if you want to try and save money instead of buying a pre-built PC. Bear in mind, researching and building a computer is generally not a linear process; there is some back and forth that needs to happen but eventually, the pieces of the puzzle will fall into place. You’ll see what I mean as you keep reading.

The first variable in this equation you need to define is “What is the primary function of this computer going to be?” Whether it is gaming or graphic design, 3D modeling, or just surfing the web, this decision will guide many of your component selections down the line. For this project, I was building the computer for parametric modeling, CAM, and rendering mainly using Fusion 360 by Autodesk. If this aligns with your expectations as well, I suggest you also review the recommendations on John Saunders’ NYC|CNC website. Browse through the suggestions and get a feel for the different price points to help temper your expectations based on budget. I personally enjoyed the notion of building my computer so that’s how this started. 

Where to Begin?

Computers come in many shapes and sizes. After deciding the purpose of your new tower, you need to think about what form factor will fit your needs. If you don’t require a lot of additional hardware like a dedicated graphics card(s) or lots of RAM, you might be interested in a more compact size motherboard like the Mini-ITX which can help reduce the cost of the system. If you are going for performance you probably want the standard ATX or even an oversized motherboard like the EATX (E for Extended). Keep in mind room for expansion in the future or if you plan to upgrade your hardware at some point. Here is a good article from Mark Kyrnin of Lifewire that explains the traditional sizes or form factors that motherboards come in and some special considerations when it comes to processors, like overclocking your CPU. More on that later. I decided the standard ATX size was a nice middle-of-the-road option for the level of performance I was after while still having room to expand if needed. Okay, those are the easy questions to answer!

• Processor requirements
• Hardware Bundles / Sourcing Components
• Case Selection
• PSU and Graphics Card
• CPU Cooling
• SSD
• Advice
• Parts List

Processor Requirements

Next, you need to think about the processor or CPU. To the uninformed, this can seem like a very deep rabbit hole to fall into but it’ll be okay, I promise. There are two main paths you can follow in terms of PCs. You can use an Intel chipset or an AMD chipset. Both have their advantages and disadvantages but with a little bit of internet research, I’m confident you’ll find the answer that works for you. I chose Intel but it was a close race. I don’t personally have anything against the AMD Ryzen architecture. I honestly only have experience with Intel CPU’s so it was more of a “better the devil you know” decision for me. 

Intel processors, like the motherboards they attach to come with many options based on chip family, generation or architecture, and speed. See Intel’s website here for info regarding the numbering scheme and the suffix codes for each family of processors. After some deliberation, I decided to use an i9-9900K (i9 family, 9th generation, unlocked with onboard graphics if you’re following along). While I don’t initially intend to overclock this computer, I like the feeling of knowing that I can in the future if I ever decide I need more power. The reason I wanted onboard graphics as opposed to the (F or KF suffix) was that at that point in time I had not actually selected a graphics card. Also, if your GPU were to fail, the onboard graphics allow you to use the computer between failure and replacement of the GPU. A built-in precaution for my own peace of mind. Selecting a CPU is an important milestone because it provides you with a vital piece of information that brings us back to motherboard selection. CPUs have different mating sockets so you really need to select your processor before you choose or purchase your motherboard otherwise you could be severely limiting the available options. In terms of compatibility, my processor requires a motherboard with an LGA1151 socket. Once I knew that I could really start looking hard at motherboards, RAM, and cases to start building my PC.

Hardware Bundles vs. Sourcing Individual Components

Full disclosure, I wanted to be absolutely sure that all of my components were compatible (or be able to blame someone else) so I opted for a bundle that included the processor I selected, a compatible ATX motherboard, and two sticks of RAM. You don’t have to purchase a bundle if you have specific requirements but I found a good price and went for it. RAM speed is another factor you need to be aware of if purchased separately (part of the reason I went for an unlocked processor). FYI, bundles on NewEgg or other hardware websites only last as long as they are in stock because they are usually discounted from the sum of individual component prices. So, know what you are looking for, know the retail value, and be ready to purchase it when you see it. This is where research and planning are your friends. Know what you need and what you are flexible on. 

Case Selection

The summation of the decisions made up to this point allowed me to look at computer cases because I knew the size of the motherboard and I knew eventually I would add a discrete graphics card. Honestly, at this point case selection comes down to a matter of price and aesthetics. They all have many options to ponder from fan placement to hard-drive bays. I chose a case from Fractal Designs called Meshify-C. This particular case has many internal options for mounting fans, additional hard-drives or SSDs, AIO coolers, and/or water-cooled radiators if you really plan on pushing the performance of your machine. It is reasonably priced and widely available from different distributors so you can shop around for deals.

Power Supply Unit and Discrete Graphics Card

The power supply (PSU) and graphics card were the last big decisions I needed to make. The reason I lump those together is that you need to know the power requirements of the graphics card you intend to install or risk needing to upgrade the PSU when the time comes. I did not purchase it right away but I knew I was planning on getting EVGA’s GeForce RTX 2070 Super graphics card so that provided guidance on power. The unit recommends a minimum power supply capable of 650w. I overshot a little in case I ever decide to add a second GPU (the RTX 2070 Super can be duplexed with a bridge) and went with a 750w PSU. Just like every other component that goes into a computer, there are different grades of power supplies to keep in mind while shopping around. The grade can translate directly to a big difference in price. See this website for an explanation of the certification levels, but it mostly boils down to the efficiency and reliability of the internal components and the output stability. I went with EVGA’s Supernova 80+ Gold 750w modular design (again middle-of-the-road or slightly above middle).